3D Printer Upgrade

Printrbot Simple Metal Heated Bed Upgrade

I have a Printrbot Simple Metal that I purchased as a kit a couple years ago.  I purchased an upgrade kit some time ago that included a heated bed.  I have had issues with parts warping and not adhering the print bed no matter what I did. (Painters tape, sanded painters tape, glue slurry, hairspray) 

Moving forward I need my prints to be flat as I plan to make halved assemblies and potentially some molds from them.  The upgrade was straight forward and I followed the instructions on Printrbot's website.  (https://printrbot.dozuki.com/Guide/Installing+the+Heated+Bed+Upgrade+for+the+Printrbot+Simple/147)

I also received the insulation kits from them as well.  If you received this additionally with your kit you'll want to put the foil on immediately after the heating element. (https://printrbot.dozuki.com/Guide/Printrbot+Metal+Simple+Heated+Bed+Insulator+Installation/193)  Punching the holes in the foil was the hardest part in this step.  I ended up laying the foil on the element and using a mechanical pencil to create the holes. 

Old print bed with the stock metal and the recommended blue painters tape (with a light sanding) 

New Heated Bed with the Kapton tape square

Overall the upgrade was pretty straight forward and everything went smoothly.  I had a minor issue with the 6x6 Kapton tape square.  But it turned out acceptable in the end.

Currently, I'm printing a test part and I am not experiencing any warping or curling.  My bed temp is set to 70 degrees Celsius and the extruder is set to 205 degrees Celsius.  Everything looks great.  I might have to calibrate it a bit further but I am extremely happy with the initial results.

Everything else is stock in my setup.  I use Repetier Host as an interface and Slicr as the Gcode compiler.  I haven't been able to use ABS on my home machine yet (usually save that for the school's printer if an application calls for it) but I regularly print in PLA and have experimented with wood filament - it makes the room smell amazing.  Also, I have been quite curious about carbon fiber filament and other metal filaments.  While the structural integrity of parts might increase with metal filament this also means that you can now print circuits, which would be interesting.

Thanks for looking!  

Counter-weighted Adjustable Standing Desk

The Idea:

I wanted to make a standing desk that was counter-weighted for the adjustment.  I saw something online that used a scissor style counter-weight and thought that I could make a more compact version by using a pulley system and hiding the weights near the frame.  Currently I want a box rolling up and down on a pipe filled with gravel for the counter-weight. Each leg would have a box on the pipe-roller system.  I thought that this would be the simplest for adjusting the weight and to dial in the perfect counter-weight. 

Demonstrating the range of motion.

The "Frame" Prototype:

Made out of pine and screws for easier dis-assembly.  The final version will be made out of hardwoods.  Also, the rolling system was not put in place on this.  I felt that the extra weight would throw everything even more out of square on this build.  I was mainly looking for scale and to identify any unforeseen issues that didn't come out with cardboard.

I had every intention to use wire for connecting the weights to the desktop but I really like the way the rope looks. I'm still thinking through the potential amount of stretching that will occur and if the headache will be worth the aesthetics. 

The Weight System Prototype:

I knew I had to attach the weight box to something with rollers on it and then have a "counter" roller on the other side of the pipe.  Here is my first flushed out idea:

I thought this was a good start, but had still to counter act the potential of the box rotating on the pipe and causing issues.  

These are just press fit together. 3/4" Birch plywood with dado's that will be trimmed to size when the size comes to fruition.

I want to use roller blade wheels but at the time Craigslist didn't have any and it's not garage sale season so I made a bunch with a hole saw.  Friction may become an issue... we'll see, but these we're free.

The general idea - The pipe would slide on the wheels.  Now to do this 14 more times!

It's hip to be square! 

I used a router template to cut the wheel slots.  Quicker and more accurate then drilling and cutting the the waste between with a jig saw.

Needed slots for the rods that the wheels spin on. Here I am drilling the pilot holes on my tiny drill press.

 

And finishing with a hand drill.


















































































This is as far as I have got in the process so far.  My big concerns are friction created by the wheels and the potential "twisting" of the box around the pole.

I plan to continue this project during my next break in classes as I do have a need for this desk.

Thanks for looking!

Update - 3/8/16

I built boxes to hold weigh and attached one of the roller assemblies to it.  I also constructed a testing rig for it.







FRICTION FEARS CONFIRMED!

I had to get rid of the wooden wheels and instead I've put in some cheap skateboard bearings.  But the spacing is completely off on the roller assembly.

I want to keep the roller assemblies through the prototype process so I'll have to design and print something.

I am currently waiting on the correct heating element for my heated bed.  I have a Printrbot Simple Metal but it needs a heated bed to get some flat prints.  The kit I purchased came with the wrong heating element so hopefully they have quick shipping.  Nothing against Printrbot, they have excellent customer service and are quick to resolve the issue.  I thoroughly enjoy my Simple Metal an dwould recommend it to anyone in the market for a high definition 3D printer with a hobbyists budget.

'Till next time.

Mini Tables - Monitor Stands

The Idea:

I wanted to make something for my family that would keep them guessing up until they had to assemble it.  Conveniently they all needed some type of monitor stand or TV stand.  They usually come out to the shop and snoop around so I wanted to make something that would not be immediately distinguishable.

The Prototype:

Plywood box with mitered corners with a 1 inch gap in the middle.  Cut the"bottom" off and then made the legs out of scrap.

The Build:

Now to make a prettier version made out of 1/2" maple and 1" oak.

(I do my glue-ups in the basement in the winter)

Put a screw in for re-enforcement, didn't want any monitors crashing down.

Make a box to complete the look and increase confusion upon opening.

What they unwrapped:

I got a lot of puzzled looks and no one knew what it was - Success!

Final Thoughts:

I really enjoyed this project.  I was able to practice my miters and angled dado's with a bottom parallel to the top of the leg.  I also was happy with the way that the two species of wood contrasted inside the package. 

I ultimately did add screws to the legs, I felt a bit nervous with just the glue knowing that a expensive electronic devices would be sitting on this.  The extra reinforcement might not have been necessary but I'd rather overbuild this than under build it.

Thanks for looking! 

Stress Blocks - White Elephant Gift from Scrap Wood.

Idea:

I needed to make a White Elephant Gift for a party with minimal impact to my wallet.  But I also wanted to make something that wouldn't immediately be thrown away (hopefully). So I drew up a box in Illustrator, had it printed and then glued it down to some cardboard.

The Build:

Needed some clear plastic sheeting and all I had was a 3 ring binder cover.

Fill it with scrap of different shapes and sizes.

Final Thoughts:

I'm happy with this quick build and I think whoever is lucky enough to pick it will be too.

Thanks for looking!